Sunday, April 16, 2006

ARDMAIR TRAVERSES


1. HIGH TRAVERSE - V3 - from far right, traverse on good holds all the way left along the higher lip of roof.
2. ELIMINATE TRAVERSE - V5/6 SS - from Right Bulger eliminate big holds and traverse to far right and up.
3. MIKE'S TRAVERSE V7/8 - an eliminate traverse of the lower lip of the roof, starting from the Smiley hold, no back wall on roof allowed for feet. Excellent and hard.
4. CUP RUN V6/7 - from low down on roof shelf, gain higher shelf slopers, then reach back twice on tan crimps RH, crux slap left to tan sloper, continue to jugs far left. Good moves and apparently there's an easier sequence with devious heel-toe jams if you're canny!

Monday, April 03, 2006

Ardmair Beach


Just north of Ullapool, over the hill from Rhue, is the restful pebbled beach of Ardmair. There is not-so-restful bouldering at the south end on the excellent roof, which stays reasonably dry even in heavy showers. Across the road, the Ruins area contains Mike Tweedley's two excellent roof problems, Corkscrew and Crucifix (on the obvious propped roof 100 metres along the fence). The problems appear in the Guides section at www.scottishclimbs.com and Ian Taylor has done a good topo as well for the beach crag. Here's a photo-topo and descriptions of the straight-ups at the beach - all done from a sit-start they give roof-monkeys a dozen or more work-outs. Various traverses can be done along the lip, from a grade of V2 on the higher holds to V7/8 on the lower holds, depending on where you start and what holds you eliminate. Ian Taylor and Lawrence Hughes have done most of the link-ups here, but feel free to create your own variations - it's that kind of bouldering wall!

Updated topo April 16th 2006 - thanks to Ian Taylor!

STRAIGHT-UPS

1. THE POCKETS - V3 SS - small pocket on top of seam to shallow pocket and over on jugs.
2. THE LEDGE - V1 SS - climb through undercut nose.
3. PEBBLEDASH ROOF - V1 SS - climb from slot under the wee rectangular roof straight over.
4. RIGHT BULGER - V2 SS - from low undercuts climb up!
5. SMILEY - V3 SS - climb through the smiley hold also using crimp on right.
6. BEHIND YOU - V3 SS - from small corner reach back to hold below juggy finish.
7. USE YOUR KNEE - V3 SS - from cramped start at back of big corner, gain left crimp and use cleverness to static the jug on lip.
8. REACH FOR THE SKIES - V2 SS - from lowest shelf slopers match roof jug and slap for sloper out right, cross through and up.
9. WATCH YOUR BACK - V3 SS - from low slopers, gain jug on roof (RH) and crank to lip block LH, find better finger slots to finish up jugs.
10. CHANGING THE LOCKS - V4 SS - from higher shelf slopers, gain crimps in roof and slap upwards to better holds. Clever heel-toe makes it easier.
11. CUP RUN DIRECT - V5/6 SS - same start as above but gain crimps with right hand go-again moves, crux slap left to tan sloper, keep going left to footless slap for jugs on far left. Maybe easier with different sequence.
12. BOULDER-DING - V4 SS - Far left roof. Starts at a big undercut then cuts straight on through Cup Run. Really good moves using a toe hook in the undercut.